Direct dye removal methods
Purple, plum, blue, turquoise & green are the most difficult colours to remove.
Pink, orange & lavender will fade to a pastel wash which is soft & wearable, while waiting for a natural fade.
Light pink can be naturalised by applying a gold/peach direct dye to any pink areas in blonde hair, working it into small sections at a time & rinsing.
Purple & blue pretty much always fade to a murky green, unless its on white hair. Blue tones turn green when it mixes with any yellow/blonde hair.
Direct dyes, like La Riche Directions, Crazy Colour, Arctic Fox, Lime Crime, Manic Panic & Milkshake are all direct dyes. Their larger colour molecules sit in the outer layer of the hair, enabling them to be washed out.
On damaged hair, the direct dye may go deeper into the hair shaft causing permanent staining.
Aggressive bleaching with high strength peroxide can not only push colour deeper into the hair, but reactivate old colour you had forgotten about!
ENCOURAGING THE FADE
Spend a couple of weeks washing the hair in an anti dandruff or clarifying shampoo & hot water. You know how you wash in cooler water to preserve colour, well hotter water fades it.
My faves are Malibu-Undo the Goo & Head & Shoulders.
Cover the hair in coconut oil & leave for a couple of hours, this will soften the outside of the hair lifting the cuticle slightly. Then use a clarifying shampoo applied over the coconut oil, cover with a cap & heat under a dryer for 20 mins. Gently exfoliate the hair by rubbing with your palms, concentrating on the darker & pigmented areas.
After this the hair needs to be conditioned with a mask or treatment & Olaplex No. 3, if you have it.
If you have unwanted areas of colour left, visiting a stylist who specialises in mermaid hair would be a great option. The treatment I prefer is a Malibu DDL treatment, this is formulated to remove direct dye & it is the best thing I’ve found after a blonde wash.
A blonde wash is a mix of lightening powder, water, shampoo & conditioner. It’s rinsed though the hair & can lift out unwanted colour.
STYLISTS & HOME COLOURISTS
Credit – Katie Siepierski Method
Apply pure coconut oil over dry hair & leave for 2 hours
4oz clarifying shampoo
1oz bleach powder
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon coconut oil
Apply generously over the oiled hair, do not wet or rinse. Work it through the hair exfoliating the hair shaft. Cap & a warm dryer for 5-10 mins.
Shampoo out with hot water.
Can take 1-2 treatments.
After shampooing, use Olaplex or a silicone free conditioner or mask.
Lastly restore the PH by rinsing with white vinegar.
If hair is damaged, I would only recommend fading the colour out with frequent washing.
Always test a small piece of hair before applying anything all over.
Using Olaplex no 3,4 & 5 will help the condition ready for your next colour.
Hopefully your former blonde hair is restored & you will just get yourself a glitter parting next year!